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Dusk, then dark.  And the smell of sulfur.  The gently rolling lava flats begin to glow.  Little rivulets of lava bloom like veins in a great bleeding, black heart.  Those are in the distance; [...]

In my previous article I mentioned the “un-Americanness” of Hawai’i.  Today this is what I begin to write about, though not without misgivings.  The first time I attempted to write about it from [...]